Saturday, September 5, 2009
Mahalo, Ngeniyerriya, Shukuriya, Baie Dankie, Diolch, Takk, THANK YOU
First and foremost, I'd like to thank the Circumnavigators Club Foundation for offering the unique opportunity to enhance my education and personal growth with an international experience. Their generous support- from personal donations to guidance along the way- was the foundation for my successful experience.
One cannot measure the invaluable assistance I received along the way from all of my gracious hosts who provided me with accommodations, food, rides, data, guidance, genuine interest in my project, and ultimately, friendship.
The strong support group I had back at home is truly what kept me going on a day-to-day basis. These are the friends and family who worked "behind the scenes," making sure I stayed happy and healthy along the way. The steady influx of emails was a constant source of encouragement and the enthusiasm they showed was so inspiring.
A heart felt thank you to everyone who played a role in my trip. I certainly would not have succeeded without you, and please know that my door is always open to you all.
Luck to you!
Gabby
You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Detour in the North Atlantic
When listing out the countries that I planned to visit on this trip, I often got asked the question, "Why Iceland?" Dirty beaches are not typically associated with the remote coastal areas of the far North Atlantic. Initially my answer to this question was that I planned to visit Iceland out of pure curiosity. Although I hadn't heard of much concern on the topic of marine debris in the country, I was aware of the surprising amount of trash that washes ashore on some of the Arctic Islands such as Svalbard, Norway. While flights to such far out islands were reaching well out of my price range, I opted to check out the trash situation in Iceland- an island located within the North Atlantic current system that could be reached without breaking my budget.
To my surprise, I was bombarded with opportunities to join cleanups and volunteer work camps once I arrived in the country. A young, energetic group called Worldwide Friends is very active in beach cleanups all throughout Iceland. They take volunteers from around to globe for extended-stay work camps where they visit some of the most pristine, remote sites in the country to clean the beaches. How I didn't come across this group in my endless online searching is still a puzzle to me, but I was very luck to have happened upon them as I did. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to join all of their projects, so I chose the most feasible and interesting one and booked a trip to the West Fjords for the following morning.
I met with a small group of international volunteers- mostly Europeans and one lovable Canadian- who were busy cleaning the beaches of the West Fjords. We stayed in an abandoned school house in Nupur- a small town on the coast of a jetting fjord with a declared population of 2. The plumbing in the school worked and there was no need for electricity with so many hours of sunlight, so we staked out spots with our sleeping bags on the gymnasium floor and set out during the days to walk the coast lines. Covering between 8 and 12 kilometers per day, we filled quite a few trash bags.
We found a high amount of wood, which I usually choose to overlook as it has little to no impact and can be bulky and too heavy to remove. It took me a few kilometers, however, to realize that all of this wood washing up was actually quite peculiar considering that Iceland has very few trees. Turns out, by the way the currents flow, most of the wood we were finding was likely from Siberia and has been used to heat the homes dotting the tree-less valleys of the West Fjords for years. Amongst the lengthy list of unfavorable impacts that I'd developed over the months, I finally came across an item washing to shore that had benefits and was in fact valued by the locals.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
A Lion for a Week
I had scheduled a few free days in Wales before and after the cleanup, as my hosts were eager to show me around. Having grown up in the area, they knew more than any tour guide and took me on long drives into the valleys, tours of Cardiff and through more castles than I can count. All the while they recounted fascinating tidbits of Welsh history as well as their own personal stories. It was certainly an unmatchable experience.
On my last night in Porthcawl, the Lions Club surprised me with a reception as a thank you for coming out to help with their beach cleanups. It was a lovely evening of drinks and hors d'oeuvres, and serenades from a local choir. The club presented me with an engraved plaque made of Welsh slate as well as loads of Porthcawl Lions paraphernalia. I was even presented with a town plaque from the mayor herself. This unexpected evening was topped off with an invite for a coastal tour on the town's lifeboat- a highly regarded boat that is part of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution's fleet. Geared up in a dry suit and helmet, I boarded the boat for this rare opportunity. Due to the high tidal changes in the Bristol Channel, the boat is launched atop a fully waterproofed tractor specifically designed for such a task. The entire process was incredible to watch and I felt quite lucky to be apart of it.
The Porthcawl Lions Club, as well as the community as a whole could not have been more gracious to me and I certainly look forward to returning for a visit in the future. Until then, I've been assigned the task to contact my local Lions Club!
Monday, August 3, 2009
God Save the Seas
One of the many highlights of my British experience was spent on the Dorset Coast of Southern England. For several nights I camped on the rolling hills of an organic farm before hiking the Dorset Coast Path along the rocky ridge lines and white cliff edges of the Jurassic Coast to Lulworth Cove. This is where the spectacular "Durdle Door" is located- a natural limestone arch protruding into the waters of the English Channel. Despite it's status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the area suffers the impacts of marine debris. So as the rest of the visitors sunbathed and BBQ'ed, I spent the day cleaning the beach.
A bit farther west along the English Channel is Plymouth- the town best known to Americans as the port of embarkation for the Mayflower in 1620. I spent some time at the University of Plymouth where marine ecologist and biologist, Richard Thompson, is at the forefront of research in what he calls "microplastics," a microscopic form of marine debris likely formed from the breakdown of items such as plastic bags and bottles. By the use of an incredibly powerful mass spectrometer, he is able to positively identify some of the microscopic particles as various types of synthetic, man made polymers. His team is currently trying to assess the environmental impacts of this type of debris. I spoke with one of his graduate students, who is looking into the prevalence of microplastics in the tissues of mussels. I was able to join him while he sampled at a really remote site called Whitsand Bay. And, of course, killing two birds with one stone, I cleaned the beach while I was there, too.
I also spend a good deal of my time in Wales which deserves to be touched upon when I have a bit more time. So stay posted...
Next stop: Reykjavik, Iceland
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Talkin' Trash in South Africa
Catching a lift with one of the country's soccer teams, I took a dhoni (the traditional Maldivian boat) to an inhabited island in the North Male' Atoll called Huraa. The ride was nearly 2 hours but the on-board entertainment made it go by quickly. I watched, and then was insisted on joining, as the entire team played a game described to me as a "singing competition." On the top deck, lit only by the moonlight, I attempted to join as the guys danced and sang Dhivehi songs, although the only lyrics I recognized the whole night were during two guys' short rendition of "Who Let the Dogs Out." On Huraa, I was graciously accommodated in the island's tuna factory, and even invited to join the factory workers at meal times. Situated between two resort islands, and having been heavily impacted by the 2004 Tsunami, the island's beaches were in need of a cleaning. Although I was not able to remove some of the debris, such as a washing machine and large plates of lumber, I cleaned several beaches and noticed most of the trash was likely from the nearby resorts. It is widely known that nearly all of the resorts in the Maldives dump their trash into the ocean. Although there are obviously laws against this, enforcement is nearly impossible and inhabited islands such as Huraa are seeing the devastating effects of this. My most interesting item found during these clean ups was probably the torso of a large plastic mannequin.
One of the local dive shops in Male' hosts a month-long underwater cleanup on the Male' reef each year, where dozens of divers throughout the country come to participate. It is a huge community event where even non-divers come out to help take care of the 6 to 8 tons of rubbish that usually gets pulled up. Unfortunately I was just a month too early to join the cleanup, but was still able to visit the site to get a look at the trash. And boy, was there trash. Embedded in the coral I spotted bed sheets, street signs, a DVD player, bottles, a tricycle, banners from the latest election still attached to metal poles, fishing line, metal baskets... I found enough dishes and cutlery to fill the kitchen cupboards of my apartment this fall.
I've now been in South Africa for nearly 2 weeks. My father decided to make the trip out to visit me and of course, I've put him to work cleaning beaches. On an 8-day coastal roadtrip from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth and back, we managed a nice balance of work and play. Puttering along in a VW Chico, we stopped periodically to visit marine research centers and scope out the debris situation on the capes.
Next stop: The Jurassic Coast of Southern England
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Trouble in Paradise
I've been staying on the capital island of Male', a two square kilometer concrete jungle home to over 100,000 people. Crowded doesn't even begin to describe it. Vastly different than any city I've visited before, its relative isolation has allowed it to retain a pure, fascinating culture. The population is 100 percent Mulsim, which has been an interesting experience for me, especially being the only westerner in town. Although curious, no one seems too bothered by my presence.
I entered a tea shop for lunch the other day and quickly noticed I was the only female in the small room. A young man happily took my order and seated me at one of the few remaining seats of a long cafeteria-style table. Joined by several dozen Maldivian men, I ate platefulls of kuli boakiba, gulha and papya. Aside from the stares and lots of friendly smiles, life went on as normal in the Dawn Cafe. I found out later that women don't traditionally enter tea shops, as it is a place for men to talk about "man stuff." (Although one woman told me she chooses not to go out of the sheer lack of sanitation- a certainly plausible excuse.) My obvious inablilty to understand Divehi must have posed little threat to their confidential conversations.
Of course I am here as, what my mom likes to refer to as, a "trash ambassador." So in order to seek out rubbish, I took a ferry to a nearby island and scoped out the marine debris situation. And on Vilingili island in the North Male' Altoll, I found the most impacted beaches I've seen so far. From couches to Q-tips, and toothbrushes to toilet seats, I entered a whole new realm of beach cleaning. Here's just a portion of the list of items I collected on 55 meters of beach:
-1 fluorescent light bulb
-11 glass bottles (including 2 empty bottles of Tobasco sauce)
-23 diapers (Maldivians will not throw human feces into a garbage dump, so instead, diapers are traditionally thrown into the sea.)
-25 shoes
-1 twin-sized mattress
-21 cardboard containers of Milo drink
-1 mother board of a computer
-2 glass jars of Nutella
-1 foam cushion
-36 plastic wrappers from instant noodles
-1 wine cork
Although, far more interesting than the items I collected, was the reaction I received by passerbys. As I dragged the ever-growing trash bags along the beach, small crowds began to form. My foreign appearance added to such odd behavior was certainly a sight for curious locals. Seemingly too nervous to approach, they stared from a distance, some even held their children so as to prevent them from wandering my way. Smiling at the crowds, I continued cleaning. Typically, after I've finished cleaning a stretch of beach, I will lay all the trash back out and sort it in order to record what's been collected. So not only did this crazy white woman spend hours picking up trash on an arbitrary beach, but now she's dumping it all back out and sitting down to admire it. As you'd expect, this really seemed to puzzle people.
A message to users to keep the beach clean on the island of Hulhualme
Saturday, June 20, 2009
If only Barbie could talk
I also got the chance to go inland for a change. With a friend visiting from Melbourne, we spent a weekend rockclimbing and hiking at Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks near Darwin.
The CVA group sorting rubbish
Thursday, June 11, 2009
If you've ever lost a shoe, it's most likely in Australia
I wasn't entirely sure what to expect of Groote Eylandt, but was certain it was remote. Each time I mentioned the name of the island to an Australian, I received a very clueless look in response. And the 18-seater hopper plane I took carried 5 other passengers forthe 2 hour flight- most of which appeared to be researchers. Upon arrival, I was picked up by Keith and Navel- two rangers from the Anindilyakwa Land Council- and taken to a small market to gather grocieries before making the hour journey out to the villiage of Umbakumba. This is where Keith and his family live and where I would be staying for the week; a beautiful aboriginal community on the coast with red dirt roads and colorful homes.
At night, I joined the men as they spear fished by moonlight at low tide. Eager for me to try their favorite treats, we caught sea urchin after sea urchin- cracking them open right there on the shore and sucking the meat out raw. A bit gritty with sand, they weren't bad, although I certainly preferred the mud crab and small fish we steamed later.
During the day, I joined the rangers on their beach patrols. We'd drive the coastline in search for nets, stopping to collect and record each one. They use a booklet provided to them by the Carpentaria Ghost Nets Program to identify, when possible, the origin of each net. We'd measure the twine size and mesh size, count the strands, and identify the color as we paged through pages of foreign nets. Most of the nets we collected were trawl or gill nets from Indonesia, Thailand, and Taiwan. I should note that none of the nets that we were able to identify were from Australian fisheries.
Keith, and another ranger, Philip, also helped me out on a general rubbish clean up of about 2o0 meters of beach. Between laudry baskets, garbage bins, large plastic floats, lighters and light bulbs, the three of us collected nearly 1000 items with a total weight of 31 kilograms (just about 70 pounds). Over ten percent of the items collected were shoes. And I found the most interesting thing I've found so far on my cleanups: a pretty weathered shot gun.
Next stop: The Cobourg Peninsula in Northern Territory, Australia
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
To Cooktown and Back
It was dark by the time I arrived in Cooktown, but it was certainly not hard to find my way around. The town had one main road which deadended into the harbor. The only building showing any sign of occupancy was the local pub, and I'm pretty sure the whole town was there. It doubled as a hotel, so I was able to book a room and buy a beer all on the same tab. After a bit of chit chat and a game of pool, I was off to bed to get up for the workshop in the morning.
Speaking with marine biologists and conservationists from all over Australia and New Zealand, I was a bit shocked by what I was repeatedly told. And I think Queensland's "King of Rubbish" said it best: "the Australian governments don't give a toss about the environment." I heard story after story about devastating environmental issues that the government refuses to get involved with.
Well I just returned from a very packed pub here in Port Douglas to watch the State of Origin Rugby match- the biggest game of the year between Queensland and New South Whales. (Queensland won for anyone interested..) But I have an early morning of diving on the Great Barrier, so I'm off to bed!
Friday, May 29, 2009
Final Days in Hawaii
Well, my time in Hawaii is quickly reaching an end and I'll be headed off to Australia on Saturday. Thought I'd catch up on my blog before I left... It's been a busy 2 weeks, but really informative and certainly a great way to start of my trip!
I spent a long weekend on the Big Island, where I stayed with a retiree from NOAA- originally a civil servant for the US Navy and sent to the Northwest Hawaiian Islands in the late 1970's to look at the declining monk seal population. Finding seals entangled in anything from derelict fishing nets to life vests, his focus quickly turned to the issue of marine debris. He now coordinates a beach cleanup every couple months for the southern tip of Big Island. During a cleanup on Saturday, we recorded a collection of over 27,000 pieces (about 2000 pounds) of marine debris, the majority being plastics. Throughout Friday and Saturday, we removed nearly two tons of nets off the rocky shores. Through past cleanup participants' stories and pictures, I learned that the coastal litter situation on South Point has greatly improved since the cleanups began in 2003... hard to believe it could've been much worse!
But I have to admit, my time on Big Island wasn't all work! The couple I stayed with live at 4,000 foot elevation on Kilauea Volcano so I had plenty of free time to hike and explore the craters. Also spent a night camping on the beach with a couple graduate students from University of Hawai'i Hilo, although was awoken in the middle of the night by the painful bite of a Hawaiian centipede..
Back on O'ahu, I've been staying with the Pacific Island Marine Debris Coordinator for the NOAA Marine Debris Program and her husband, a geologist at the University of Hawaii. They're hospitality has helped me to do and see as much as possible during the last few days of my stay! I got a chance to go Scuba Diving yesterday and was lucky enough to see a couple endangered Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles, which were surprisingly sociable and swam right along with me for quite some time.
Today, after an early morning at the Honolulu fish auction (a really unique event where the night's catch is auctioned off literally one fish at a time to a refrigerated room full of seasoned buyers), I checked out the bin where any used or derelict fishing nets or lines can be dumped. The discarded gear is then cut up and incinerated to produce energy through the newly established and quickly successful Nets to Energy Program. Later this afternoon, after an underwater cleanup with a gentleman from the local dive shop, I fit in a final meeting with a few more marine debris experts.
Between work and play, I've had a really productive and rewarding time in Hawai'i. I could not have found more generous people to have come in contact with- their guidance and interest in my project has given me the insight and experience needed to confidently tackle the issue during my future stops around the globe.
See you in Australia!
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Aloha
Aloha!
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Itinerary
Hawaii- Oahu and Big Island (2 weeks)
Australia- Adelaide, Darwin, remote parts of the Northern Territory, and possibly the Great Barrier Reef (3 weeks)
The Maldives- Male and the western face of the Male Reef (1.5 weeks)
South Africa- Cape Town and along the Southeastern Coast of South Africa (2 weeks)
United Kingdom- Plymouth, the Jurassic Coast, and possibly Edinburgh (3 weeks)
Iceland- Reykjavik and Skaftafell (1.5 weeks)
I have chosen each of these regions due to their locations within an ocean current system that facilitates the transport of marine debris around the globe, inundating the coasts with trash.